SHOPPING IN YOUR LARDER

THE FAT GUY challenged me and other foodies in his latest eGullet newsletter, www.eGullet.org, to go shopping in my pantry.

I would not dare show a photo of my pantry.  It's loaded, therefore messy.  We could eat for weeks off the dried pasta, cereal, cans of veggies and tuna, the odd assortment of jams bought around the world, all the flavored honey from Bee Blessed.  And the dogs have their stash, too.

FREEZER SPACE

But lately, I haven't been able to freeze extra chili or gumbo, because freezer space is gone.  Thanks to Dan and Amy, we've got loads of blueberries and pecans from their Finch Nursery and farm in Bailey.  Pounds of greentail shrimp fresh-frozen at our coast.  Some meats from local farmers.  And peaches and more peaches I froze during their season.  

So I have to ask myself, what am I waiting for?  We are in the dead of winter, with spring weeks away.  Time to really lay into those luscious peaches and blueberries - not just the polite foraging I've been doing, to make them last longer.

So, when the Fat Guy laid out his challenge, this Carolina Foodie said, bring it on.

FREEZER BURN

I'll go one-up on the Fat Guy.  I can do local, too.

I've got a hard cheese, called DEGAS, from Sleepy Goat Cheese in Pelham, NC, left from my last visit to the Wake Forest farmers market.  I'll toast some of the Finch Nursery pecans, and that's my appetizer.

Those pork chops came from Triple B Farms north of Oxford, sold at the Wake Forest Farmers Market.  I'll use an onion I have in cold storage that I bought at the State Farmers Market to saute with the chops, and bake a few sweet potatoes from Dan and Amy.  (I think I should invite them to dinner, don't you?)

Then for dessert, how about a blueberry & peach cobbler, with ice cream? (See recipe below)

Veggies & Fruits.....do they always have to be local?

I'm trying to be a good steward of the earth.  We buy local, albeit most times, when it is convenient.  I'm thinking of joining a CSA for this summer's harvest, but am concerned about how much I will be away from home, researching a new book.

This week, a big treat has been these big, juicy navel oranges bought at Costco.  I know they traveled all the way from California, but for goodness sakes, we can't grow oranges here.  And the big bag of firm yet juicy Bosc pears came all the way from Oregon.  But I did not find any pears at any NC markets this fall, and the laborers swiped all from my grandmother's tree on the farm.

So how do we balance the need for being good food stewards, with our tasteful desires and good nutrition?   I feel I'm better off eating a navel orange for my afternoon snack than I am a bag of potato chips.  So why do I feel guilty?  Lemme know your thoughts.

RECIPE - BLUEBERRY & PEACH COBBLER, adapted from THE OUTER BANKS COOKBOOK, by Elizabeth Wiegand, 2008, Globe Pequot Press.  Copyrighted.

During baking, this cobbler does a flip-flop; the fruit and juice go to the bottom and a cake-like layer forms on top.

For the Batter:

1/4 cup (1/2 stick) butter, softened

1/3 cup sugar

1 cup sifted all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup milk

For the Fruit Topping:

1 1/2 cup blueberries

2 cups sliced peaches

1/3 cup sugar

1 cup fruit juice (OJ will do, but also try peach or apricot nectar)

1.  Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2.  Spray or lightly butter one 10x5x3 inch loaf pan

3.  Sift flour, baking powder, and salt in alternately with milk, and mix just until smooth.  Pour batter into prepared pan.

4.  Place fruit over batter, and sprinkle with the 1/3 cup sugar.  Pour fruit juice over top.

5. Bake for 45 to 50 minutes, until to is browned.

Serves 6

Carolina Foodie Goes Sailing

Okay, so I'm ruin't.  Last week I went even further south, to the British Virgin Islands, a favorite stomping ground where we can sail our chartered boat from island to island each night. 

I know it's not Carolina, even though we always meet somebody from our state.  May I share our culinary delights?  

ISLAND TREATS

Flying Fish sandwiches, crisply fried red snapper, grilled grouper, and spicy ribs were such treats the nights we went onshore.   But the absolute best were the hot, steaming spiny lobsters plucked from their cage right off the dock and served with lemon butter at Abe's, a simple little waterside place on Jost van Dyke.

We were told once by a prissy New Yorker that lobsters mate for life and walk hand in hand across the ocean floor.  My husband replied "that why you eat them in twos."  He's spent many hours searching for them among the rocks and coral heads, but has yet to pluck one from its hiding place. 

Saba Rock, above (photo snapped while on a hike over the island), is in the North Sound of Virgin Gorda, and serves THE best conch fritters and Painkillers.  Their fritters taste much like our hushpuppies, just with tiny chunks of conch, and usually served with a spicy aioli-type sauce.

HAPPY HOUR

I can really get into Happy Hour, when drinks are two for the price of one.  One of the BVI's specialities is a Painkiller, designed to either ease your pain or cause a great deal of it.

Try the recipe below.  They're deliciously addictive, so watch out!  And the freshly grated nutmeg is what really makes it.

BVI PAINKILLERS

1 ounce cream of coconut, like CocoLopez

1 ounce orange juice

3 ounces pineapple juice  (or use 4 oz of pineapple-orange juice)

2 ounces dark Rum

freshly grated nutmeg

Shake all ingredients together, and pour over ice. Grate nutmeg over the top.  Enjoy!!!

BE MINE, VALENTINE

"Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly."  M.F.K.Fisher
VALENTINE'S DAY is all about the romance.  Chocolates, red wine, lace. . . That said, I've found the best way to my man's heart is through his stomach.  Seduction occurs in our kitchen, lingers over a naughtily good meal, finished with - okay, I admit - chocolate, red wine and lace.

Some of the very worst dinners we've had out have been on Valentine's Day.  Restaurants are so overwhelmed on this night, that service is always poor; waits occur, even with reservations; and the food, we found, is not up to the usual quality.

A romantic dinner at home need not be a hassle.  Toss together a salad, grill some steaks, and indulge in a store-bought chocolate confection.  What counts is that you spend time - quality time - with the one you love.  

One Valentine, my folks dropped by at the last minute, so for our romantic dinner we had four adults and three cranky kids, who had been deprived of their naps so they'd go to bed early.  At least I was able to light the candles.

SUGGESTED MENU   A short tour of the state, or grocery store, can net you some very fine, celebratory foods for a really special dinner for two.  

- Sunburst Trout, at the base of Cold Mountain, near Candor, NC, produces excellent caviar that is being used in finer restaurants across the country. Even Jacques Pepin loved it.  

- I still have a few beets in cold storage from Raleigh's Farmers Market.  We've got a stash of fresh pecans in the freezer from my sister and her husband's farm in Bailey.  

- And now's the time when goats are having their kids, so local, fresh chevre is not generally available.  But you can still find logs at your local cheese counters.  

- Recipes for starred items (*) can be found in THE OUTER BANKS COOKBOOK.  

Sunburst Trout Caviar, Chevre & Toast Points

Champagne

Salad of Roasted Red Beets, Toasted Pecans*, and Chevre

sparkling water

Wasabi-Mine Valentine Tuna Steaks*

medley of roasted red & yellow peppers with fingerling potatoes

Pinot Noir

Chocolate Pecan Pie*

Porto

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP is a favorite on a cold winter's day.  It conjures up days sailing in and around Grenada, where we fell in love with their local gastronomic treat, Pumpkin Soup.  Fresh nutmeg from this "spice island" was always grated over the top, right before serving.  That aroma sends me images of tropical beaches, trade winds and swimsuits and warms my soul. 

Turns out their "pumpkin" is more like the butternut, which is available locally. 

Kept in a cold spot, but not the fridge, butternut squash will keep from its late fall harvest through most of the winter.  It's easy to roast, just by halving and seeding, or even to peel and saute in a bit of oil, then adding a bit of water, simmering until it's soft enough for using in recipes.  Added to risotto, it makes for such a rich dish full of flavors.  

But our favorite is SOUP. I like to roast the squash, because it seems to be sweeter and have a more intense flavor.

My family is fairly lactose intolerant, so we do not add cream or milk to the recipe below, making it a very healthy, low-cal dish.  However, for those of you who can tolerate both the dairy and the extra calories, you could add at least one cup of cream or milk.  

Just make sure you grate some fresh nutmeg over the top before serving.  One whiff can send me all the way back to Grenada.  

BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

Serves 6 as a first course, or 4 for lunch

1 medium butternut squash

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 medium to large onion, quartered

2 cloves garlic, peeled

about 1 quart or more of chicken broth or tock, or vegetable stock, or water

optional: 1-inch piece of fresh ginger, minced fine, or 1 teaspoon ground, dried ginger

salt and pepper to taste

Garnish Options: dollops of soft cheese or chevre; swirl of cranberry oil; chopped 

pistachios or walnuts; or plain or herbed croutons

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a baking sheet with foil.

2. Slice butternut squash in half. Using a spoon, scoop out seeds. Rub olive oil 

over the cut surfaces, then place squash cut-side down on the foil.

3. In a small square of aluminum foil, place onion and garlic. Seal, and place 

beside the squash on the baking sheet.

4.  Bake until the squash is very tender, about 45 minutes to an hour.

5.  Peel skin from the flesh of the squash, which should come off easily, or else 

scoop flesh with a spoon.  Place squash in the bowl of a food processor.  (Or use a potato masher and chop onions and garlic).  Add onions and garlic, and process until a smooth puree.  Add chicken stock a bit at a time while machine is running, until you have the desired soup consistency.  Be careful, however, not to overfill machine, as it may ooze!

6.  Place puree and broth in a large saucepan or smaller stock pot.  eat, over medium to low heat, and simmer until mixture has thickened slightly, about 10 minutes.  Taste and add seasonings, including ginger, as desired.

7.  Serve in large soup bowls, and add preferred garnish to the center, or serve plain.

 

OYSTER BARS

Cold weather makes my mouth water for OYSTERS.  

Yeah, we all know the old rule about only eat oysters during the "R" months.  That's because the water is cold enough that they're done spawning, thus done with being "milky,"and now sport a clean, intense flavor.

You'll find local oysters from the waters of NC esp. along the Outer Banks, near Wanchese, Stumpy Point, Crab Slough and other points in the Pamlico Sound.  They're making a bit of a comeback in NC, due to efforts at restoration and cleaning up pollutants.

Buy them by the bag full and steam or roast them yourself.  Need instructions?  Check out THE OUTER BANKS COOKBOOK, where I tell you how.

Or try them lightly fried - one of my fav's - at Basnight's Lone Cedar on the causeway between Manteo and Nags Head.  They'll also steam them.  

OYSTER BARS

My favorite Oyster Bar is Sunny Side, in Williamston, off HWYs 13 & 17, just off HWY 64, on the way to the Outer Banks.  It's in an old building that doesn't look like much.  You enter into the main bar area, where you can belly up and order a cold brew while listening to live bands on weekend nights, and while you're waiting for your coveted stool in the BACK room, where the U-shaped oyster bar is.  Look over into the middle, where the half dozen black shuckers continue to work as they have for dozens of years, and you'll find cedar shavings on the floor.  Ordered by the bucketfuls, the oysters are steamed out back, dumped in the trough in front of you, and opened by your own personal shucker, as fast as you can slurp 'em down.  Bowls of hot sauce and hot butter are there for the dipping, too. 

Those shuckers are full of stories.  Just get them to talking, and you'll have a belly full and a good time.  They'll even sign their photos on your placemat.  1102 Washington St., Williamston, www.sunnysideoysterbar.com, (252) 792-3416.

Raleigh and Cary Oyster Bars

The 42nd Street Oyster Bar on the corner of Jones and West Streets in Raleigh has been around since 1931.  Updated, it's a lively place on weekend nights, with a true bar scene and live music.  But you can still sit at the stainless steel bar or nearby counter and enjoy buckets of steamed oysters and a cold beer.  At weekday lunch, you're likely to see politicians or businessmen slurping down oysters while ironing out details that will affect you somehow.  www.42ndstoysterbar.com, (919) 831-2811.

Tony's Bourbon Street Oyster Bar in Cary, at the MacGregor Village shopping center, has a great bar scene as well.  You have to sit at the bar in back to get steamed oysters, where your every need will be taken care of, from a cold brew to melted butter to cocktails sauce and crackers.  Lively music, and a dance floor, makes this a very fun place to seek the bivalve on weekends.  www.tonysbourbonstreet.com, (919) 462-6226.

Got a favorite?  Email me at efwrite@hotmail.com.

NEW MAGAZINE

edible Piedmont is a new quarterly publication that "celebrates local foods, from the plateau to the coast."  You'll find it, for free right now, at Whole Foods, Southern Things and NOFO, and at some farmers markets and vineyards.  Check out my article about oysters in the Winter issue, with a recipe for Ocracoke Oyster Stew & Grits from my OUTER BANKS COOKBOOK, as well as a primer on roasting oysters.

The Appalachian Sustainable Agricultural Project (ASAP) is a wonderful organization of farmers, food producers and chefs located in the mountains of North Carolina.  Each year, they publish a LOCAL FOOD GUIDE, which lists farmers markets, farmers and their contact info, restaurants that use local foods, and retailers that stock local products.  You can pick one up for free or go online at www.buyappalachian.org.

Check out their interesting newsletter, e-Connections.

YOU CAN STILL BUY LOCAL FOODS at FARMERS MARKETS

Greens, like collards and kale, onions, sweet potatoes, winter squash, honey, pecans, eggs, goat cheese, sausage and other meats, jellies and jams, breads, pies and cakes, and in the Asheville area, rainbow trout - this is what you'll find at farmers markets here in N.C. during the winter.

Asheville restaurants are to be applauded for their efforts to serve local foods all year round.  Early Girl Eatery has a CSA supplying winter produce, while Tupelo Honey's own chef harvests from his own garden for the restaurant's supplies.  The Market Place, Savoy, Laurey's Catering, and a host of other restaurants join in the local food movements.  Check out ASAP for restaurant suggestions.

INAUGURATION CHILL-IE!

Sustainable farms, food that's nutritious, food traditions that are honored, sharing meals and ideals....that's what the organization SLOW FOOD is all about.  Check them out at slowfoodusa.org.

INAUGURATION CHILL-IE!

When my candidate, Barack Obama, was sworn in as the 44th President of the United States, a snow storm covered most of North Carolina.  It was quite beautiful in the Triangle area, with branches laden with fluffy white powder.  It was also very cold.  

But what a spectacular day to witness such a welcome change for our country. 

I was prepared for the cold, and prepared to spend hours watching the inaugural activities on TV.  I had stacked wood inside the night before, and started a huge batch of chili in my new cast iron pot that was a Christmas present from the hubby.

Chili is one of the favorite things our new president likes to cook and eat.  Aha!  Great for Inauguration  Day!   I wanted to try a chili with chunks of beef rather than ground beef, and found an inexpensive, lesser cut of steak.

I had to "cure" the pot ahead of time, coating it with vegetable oil, then heating it in a very low oven for several hours.  It's a terrific pot, and can even be used in the fireplace, in case we have no electricity due to snowstorms!

As for the chili, it cooked for a couple of hours before I had to let it sit overnight in the fridge.  Then, because I had added too much chili powder, I needed to add some more beans to cut the "heat."  There was no more room in the pot, so I transferred the chili to a very large crock pot. 

And that worked great.  I was able to nestle by the fire with my sweetie while we watched the festivities, only occasionally jumping up to give the chili a stir.  By the time Obama was sworn in, we were enjoying the celebration of change, and, our chili.  What a grand day!

RECIPE  -   INAUGURAL CHILI

Make it as spicy as you like.  It needs to simmer for at least four hours to make the beef chunks tender. 

Serve in large bowls with crisp tortilla chips, or cornbread, or toast.  A salad makes a nice accompaniment.

Serves 6 to 8 with hearty appetites.

2 large onions, chopped

1 large red, orange or green bell pepper, chopped

several cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 lbs beef (I used round steaks), cut into bite-sized chunks or cubes

1/4 cup canola or vegetable oil

about 1 cup water

4 cups black beans (2 large cans, or mix 1 with a can of red kidney beans)

2 small (14-oz) cans, or 1 large can, chopped tomatoes

2 1/2 Tablespoons Seasoning Mix:  equal parts dried oregano and ground cumin, and about half (or equal amount if you like it hot!) hot chili powder or flakes (I used about 2 tablespoons of each, but that was really hot!)

lots of freshly ground pepper, and salt, to taste

1.  In a large saute pan, heat olive oil over medium heat.  Add onions, and stirring occasionally, cook until they begin to soften.  (You can chop up the meat while this cooks.)  Add bell pepper and stir for about 3 minutes.  Add garlic, and stir for another minute.  Take off heat, and set aside.

2.  n a very large, heavy pot, add canola oil and place over medium high heat.  When oil is hot enough (should spatter when a piece of beef is added), add just enough beef cubes to not even cover the bottom of the pot.  You want to brown each piece, without any touching, on at least two sides.  If crowded the beef will just turn gray and stew, rather than brown, and the aim is to seal the juice in by browning first.  Remove the batch of beef cubes with a slotted spatula or spoon, and place in the same pan as the onion mixture.  Continue with more batches until all the beef cubes have been browned.  It may take six to ten batches.  Be patient.   This is what makes it taste so good.

3.  When all the beef is browned, pour off excess oil and return the pot to the burner.  Deglaze the pot by adding the cup of water, and stir all the browned beef particles off the bottom of the pot.  This will give the chili a great flavor.

4.  Burn heat to  low.  Add the onion mixture and beef to the pot.  Add beans and tomatoes, and stir well.  Add seasonings (be conservative, for you can always add more spice, but it's hard to take it away!).  If the chili seems too thick, add water, a half cup at a time until you have the desired consistency.

5.  Once mixture starts to boil around the edges, lower heat until just a simmer.

6.  Simmer chili for at least 4 hours, stirring occasionally.  You might want to transfer the mixture to a crock pot, as I did.  It's best when the beef cubes are so tender that they almost disintegrate.   You might have to add more water if it gets too thick.  You decide.  Taste for seasonings.